Articles on Gardening Matters:

8 Must Have Gardening Tools for the Rose Gardener

While roses are the centerpiece of any garden landscape, these special flowers do require some specialized care and the right rose gardening tools will help you to do the job. It is important for all landscapers and rose gardeners to be aware of the special needs of roses, and to take the steps needed to help them thrive. Among the most important gardening tools for the rose gardener to gather are...

Gardening gloves
One of the chief components of any rose plant are the thorns, so a strong pair of gardening gloves is an essential part of any rose gardening kit. It is a good idea to invest in a quality pair of leather gardening gloves, as these will be more protective, and more long lasting.

Shovels
When choosing shovels for the garden, it is important to choose models that are lightweight and easy to work with. Shovels with fiberglass shafts and strong handles work well in the garden. You may also want to invest some extra money into a shovel with a padded handle.

Rakes
Like shovels, rakes are an important part of any gardening project, and it is important to choose quality rakes to get the job done. Look for a strong rake with steel tines for smoothing the garden, and a high quality leaf rake for removing leaves and other debris. It is a good idea to buy both a large rake and a smaller one for getting into those tighter places.

Pruning shears
These are perhaps the most important of all gardening tools, and rose growers will use their pruners on an almost daily basis. There are in fact two different kinds of pruners - the bypass pruner and the anvil pruner. For most types of roses the bypass pruner will work best. This type of pruning shear will not crush the delicate stems of the roses the way an anvil pruner could.

Wheelbarrow
Purchasing a simple wheelbarrow is an important part of gardening. There is simply no substitute for a strong and sturdy wheelbarrow to move things from one part of the garden to another.

Gardening fork
A gardening fork is a must have for the rose gardener. It is important to choose a quality steel gardening fork with a solid padded handle. The gardening fork will make it much easier to loosen and turn the soil.

Watering wand
When choosing a watering wand, it is important to look for one with brass fittings. These brass wands will last much longer than plastic, and that long life will more than make up for the higher initial cost. It is also a good idea to choose a wand with a shut off valve. You will find this valve very convenient when working in the garden.

Kneeling pads
Working in the garden means spending lots of time kneeling, and it is important to have a quality kneeling pad to make the work more comfortable. There are several different sizes and varieties of kneeling pads, including kneeling blocks with attached handles. It is important to shop carefully and to choose a kneeling pad that works for you.

By, Valerie T
04 Nov 2006

Did you like this article? Valerie T offers other great rose gardening http://www.abc-of-rose-gardening.com/sitemap.html tips and advice at her website abc-of-rose-gardening.com http://www.abc-of-rose-gardening.com

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Planting Herbs in the Fall

For gardeners who have tried and possibly failed at planting herbs in the spring or summer, you may have already figured out that planting in the fall is usually best for many herbs. Especially for herbs grown from bulbs, planting them in the fall gives them a chance to make roots and they will be ready for harvest in the spring. Since herbs are almost always very delicate plants, planting in the fall is the best because of the cool weather. The harsh humid conditions that occur in many parts of the country throughout the summer means that herbs will have a difficult time getting started, let alone surviving.

Of course, planting herbs in the fall is not for all climate zones, especially for climate zones above 5 or 6, and not for all herbs. In these climate zones, it is usually cool enough through the spring and summer months to grow herbs and may be too cool in the quickly approaching cold weather of the fall months. If you are interested in particular herbs then it is best to research their hardiness independently for climate zones 1-5.

For the rest of the country, planting in the fall works well because herbs need lots of sun, but do not need the humidity that goes along with the sunshine. There is a fine balance between too little and too much sunshine for these delicate plants, who usually need about five to six hours of sunlight a day. Keep in mind that there are a few herbs that enjoy the shade, such as parsley and mint, but the majority of them prefer at least a few hours of sunlight a day.

The best part about planting in the fall is that herbs can easily be planted in containers, just in case the weather gets cold. This way herbs can be moved to a greenhouse or indoors where grow lights or just placing them in a sunny window will keep them at bay for the winter.

It really is best to start out small plants or herbs from seeds in small pots in the fall and transfer them to the ground in the spring, if at all. Since they are so fragile, placing them right in the ground might mean not getting good results. Remember that there are a few herbs that come in the form of perennial bulbs, such as garlic, fennel, saffron, and shallots, but the rest are in the form of plants or seeds. Herb perennial bulbs should be placed in the ground as the fall weather approaches, but at least 6-8 weeks before a freeze, this way they have time to establish roots before becoming dormant.

There are both annual and perennial herbs as well as biennial. Popular annual herbs include basil, borage, cilantro, chamomile, and rosemary. Popular perennials and biennials include parsley, sage, and mint. Most herbs are annuals and the point of planting herbs in the fall is to give them a chance to get rooted and be prepared for an entire season in the early spring and summer months. That means you will be harvesting these annuals in the midst of the summer when the heat of the summer is useful in helping dry herbs for storage.

Ted Roberson
05 Nov 2006

Ted Roberson owner of landscape living is a landscape and garden enthusiast who has years of experience working and creating outdoor living areas. Discover how you can improve and maintain your landscape and garden area with simple projects.
http://www.landscapeliving.com/

6 Important Tips for Begineers Bonsai Tree Caretakers

Bonsai trees are a wonderful hobby to enjoy for a lifetime. However, when most people start out, most of their bonsai trees fall sick and die within a few weeks. Bonsai trees are extremely sensitive to their conditions and the caretaker needs to learn how to properly take care of these wonderful and attractive plants. Here are a few of the most commonly asked questions about caring for bonsai trees, and their answers.

Q: What about selecting the proper containers, and should they have drain holes?

A: All containers have one or more drain holes; otherwise the trees will not be healthy, they will soon look sickly and finally die.

Q: What proportion between tree and container do you advise?

A: What is generally considered the ideal or artistic proportion is the tree 80% and the container 20%; or for dwarfer shrubs or low spreading trees, the plant 60% and the container 40%. In general, the smaller containers are better.

In a shallow oblong or elliptical container, the tree should be planted at a point 70% of the distance from the right or the left end, according to the spread and shape of the branches, so that the bulk of the tree greenery is centered in relation to the container. In a square or round container, the plant is placed in the center, except cascade forms; these are planted toward the edge.

Q: I need information on pruning, both theory and practice.

A: Both root pruning and proper pruning of branches are important elements in caring for bonsai. The constant renewal or re-growth of the root system is essential to the proper health of the trunk and branches above ground. The root system will itself remain healthy only if properly pruned. This operation is associated with transplanting, and detailed directions of that can be found for free at http://www.BonsaiTreeGuide.com -- the fundamental rule in root pruning is to keep the root system "happily" within the limited dimensions of the container.

Q: Suppose I find a tree 3 feet tall at a commercial nursery that has healthy low-growing limbs and other qualities that would make a good bonsai. Shall I buy it?

A: Yes. But understand that it will need special culturing. When you get home with it (assuming that it was balled and bur-lapped at the nursery), here are the main steps to take:
1) Pot it in a container large enough not to disturb the root ball. This may be a large commercial clay pot or a small wooden tub. Better yet, make a square or rectangular container, 6 to 8 inches high and just wide enough to accommodate the root ball. Fill in with additional soil around the root ball, and press firmly. Leave an inch at the top of the container to facilitate adequate watering.
2) A tree 3 feet high is too tall for a good bonsai. Cut off the terminal 1.5 feet (approximately). Make the cut just above a side branch that can then be wired into the terminal position.
3) After 2 years in the container, with appropriate and continuous pruning and wiring of side branches, as needed, the tree should be transplanted to a container of smaller dimensions, both shallower and smaller in diameter. After a year or two in the smaller container, transplant to a still smaller authentic bonsai pot, and you are on your way!

Q: Should one deprive the little trees of as much water as possible?

A: Bonsai should be kept drier than ordinary ornamental plants in pots; but if the object is to dwarf the trees or to keep them dwarfed, it is no use to make them bone-dry. Want of water only makes them stunted or unhealthy.

If there is such a thing as a fundamental principle in watering bonsai, it is this: water liberally but be sure that the soil drains amply. In most cases, it does not matter how many times a day bonsai are watered if the soil has perfect drainage and does not hold the slightest excess of water.

This fundamental principle may be modified to suit the individual case, according to the kind of soil obtainable, the climate, the kinds of trees grown, the containers used, and the amount of time one can spare each day for bonsai.

Q: What do I need to know about winter care?

A: Winter care differs for hardy and non-hardy or tender plants.

Hardy plants are those that can live outdoors in the coldest weather without danger of winterkilling. They are not house plants but are real outdoor plants. Hardy species growing in bonsai containers present a special problem if left outdoors in below-freezing winter weather. Soil in the containers will freeze, and the containers will break. Moreover, it is impossible to properly water bonsai growing in firmly frozen soil.

If a sun porch or cold but light room is available where the night temperature never falls below about 36 degrees F, this would provide a good place for wintering hardy or semi-hardy bonsai.

Here is another suggestion for wintering hardy or semi-hardy bonsai in a freezing climate: keep them in an insulated deep cold-frame. It should be shaded by a lath house. The soil in bonsai pots, with such protection, should never freeze if the night temperatures do not go much below 0 degrees F. The bonsai should be watered as needed, and on warmer non-freezing winter days, it is well to remove the protective covering and give the plants full air. Be sure to replace the covering sash before sunset!

Many non-hardy or tender species trained as bonsai should be treated as house plants and never left out in the cold.

Just follow these few tips to help ensure that your bonsai trees stay healthy and attractive for decades to come. However, as with most hobbies and skills, experience will be the ultimate teacher.


Jon Weaver
12 Nov 2006

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